I’m saying it out loud. Two days ago I turned (why do we say ‘turned’?) 76 years old. It wasn’t a smooth turn.
Being a year older seems to have the most meaning when one is young or old. “Yay, now I’m six, I can go on the big rides.” Yay, now I’m 76, I can go on the big rides too if I have the stamina to trek down endless corridors; up long stairways to big planes on far-flung runways in overbooked airports; find the right car on the night train to Minsk; manage the chop of the sea on the windy ferry ride to Riga.
Since age and travel, especially the upcoming Big15Trip, turn up in so many of my thoughts I may was well blend the topics for today’s post.
What I really want to say is how strange it is that some birthdays pass pleasantly enough with no troubling thoughts about much of anything. And then one comes along that unexpectedly offers up everything short of night terrors.
So here I was in sunny San Diego courtesy of my fine thoughtful son, climbing the mountain, shopping at Nordstrom’s, eating tasty morsels of California cuisine, lounging about with a good book and hanging out with delightful grandchildren. All while feeling the odd moments and small waves of vulnerability, anger, uselessness, loneliness, sadness race by. They weren’t constant; I wasn’t really depressed; in fact I was generally having a very good time—and then a glum blip–like ‘in a few years they’ll being getting ready to go out for Ramen and I’ll be dead’ or ‘why’d I buy that expensive shirt, I’ll die before it’s worn out’ or ‘what if I can’t make it to the top of Black Mountain ever again’ or ‘what’s the use of thinking I can write a book when I’ll probably drop dead half way through the journey I’m writing about…’
Those nasty little blips still linger today. They’ll leave though as I revert to euphemisms like being a ‘woman of a certain age’ and realize I don’t have to change numbers again for another year AND that I can still lift a heavy backpack into the overhead before all the nice people around me have risen far enough in their seats to help.
Happy Easter! Or was that Bah Humbug?
I feel happy again…all these nice birthdays…who could not feel okay about it all…all those years.
THANK YOU FACEBOOK FRIENDS FOR THE LOVELY MESSAGES. Everytime I get a little cynical about the value of FB a birthday comes along and I realize how much I enjoy hearing from you all. Here’s a little album of a nice 24 birthday hours with San Diego Family.

LA SLEEPOVER WITH GRANDDAUGHTER TERESA
Octopus Bloody Mary or as it’s known on the menu: One-armed Mary.
NOTE: I could remove this post before my new Blog-Book is published because I Did Not Do What I Said I Was Going to Do. But it was a worthy plan so so the post gets to stay. More classes and ideas have followed and a different book is in the works for 2017. Better too many good ideas than none. (December 29, 2016)
My Geography (working title) is a book. I am writing. It will dominate my life for the rest of 2015. I’ll write this book as I traverse that very big geographic event called Eurasia, from Norway’s Atlantic Coast to Korea’s Pacific Peninsula. The journey’s in August and September; the preparation is well underway. The book starts now. My Geography is a starter title intended to make me think I’m Karl Ove Knausgaard (My Struggle!)—just another Norwegian (American) writer, bound to be brilliant and successful.
Simultaneously, I will post here, to Time and Place, to record the odd and/or mundane details of the weeks as Big Travel and Big Travel Writing are implemented. Time and Place has mostly been in limbo as I’ve perused a most enjoyable and stimulating UCLA class called “The Lyric Essay: Writing by Associative Leaps.” It is just completed with an essay titled “Geography.” Doesn’t that somehow gave me ownership of one of my favorite nouns—geography—as my writing guide for the immediate future?
If writing before during and after travel is to, as long threatened, take over the core of my life then I must acknowledge and accommodate that and not dilute it with sundry unrelated projects. How to do that? Life intrudes.
Work demands a share of me of course. I am lucky because it is good work. I am unlucky in that it is intense worthwhile work that cannot be relegated to a corner. It must share center stage.
Besides work, there’s the time-consuming stuff of everyday lived life: showers to wash my body, murder mysteries to cleanse my mind, groceries to keep me strong, toilets and floors scrubbed to keep me humble. The time for all that is constant; the place for all that is here all around the desk where I write. Sometimes cutting off my access to inspiration.
Focus Marjorie. You know pronouncements are easy. I’m very good at them. I will do this until then, for that many hours, from this time to another time, and, as a result, X will happen. It’s clearly time for less of that and more of this—fingers around the pen, fingers on the keyboard, fingers turning pages. Doing, not pronouncing.
So My Geography: The Book. It was actually born this week, a raggedy first chapter called “Bosque.” To be edited 100 times. Each week new landscapes and waterways will join this first chapter, always extending its terrain in new directions.
That’s the BOOK, here’s the BLOG. Which this post is intended to re-energize. So wake up, perk up, word up Time and Place. You’re back on.
From sunny SoCal I bring you the returned, fully-rested Time and Place (just in time for Easter) with the requisite photos of food and rhythm of family life. It’s all good.
I am a traveler. On land, sea, air. In books. On film. It’s the film travel that’s gotten my attention lately. How could it not? First with Virunga (documentary) and Ida (Foreign Film nominee) in preparation for the Oscars. You can’t visit the contemporary Democratic Republic of the Congo and post-WW2 Poland without understanding there is a very diverse world out there to explore. While movies alone won’t make you a world traveler they can definitely take you part of the way. Determined to keep the momentum going, I made a trip toward the mountains to the High Ridge Theater and Timbuktu and wrote about the experience a couple of days ago. (http://mneset.me/2015/03/10/timbuktu/).
During the following week a Netflix DVD of Wadjda arrived, first feature film made in Saudi Arabia and with a woman directing no less. The story of a spunky little girl who wants a bicycle no matter the hurdles. It’s a lovely tale, without the drama and tragedy of most of the foreign films and documentaries I’ve seen recently. Just realistically optimistic and lovingly filmed. (http://www.nytimes.com/2013/09/15/movies/wadjda-by-haifaa-al-mansour-made-in-saudi-arabia.html)
Next. Leviathan back at High Ridge. Since I’m going to Russia this summer I’ve been doing my reading (although haven’t made it back to War and Peace yet). Now it’s time for Russia on screens, big and small. Seeing Leviathan will not exactly make you rush to book your flights but hey it’s one piece of life in a very big country. It is Russian made, acted, produced, and partially financed by Russia. Leviathan is gorgeously filmed in some far far northern nook of the country with a story as cold and harsh and melodramatic as a tale of love, loss, bureaucratic corruption, hard jobs, hard lives could possibly be. And all steeped in Vodka. Steeped I tell you, steeped. Remember the Nicolas Cage movie where he tries to kill himself with booze? I was a little reminded… Dreary, brilliant, scary…I’m still going to Russia though.
I’ll be back with Happy People: a Year in the Taiga (Netflix DVD) and Red Army at High Ridge this Monday. My Russian education continues.
And, since I’ve now purchased my tickets on the Trans-Siberian trains, that education has grown in importance! Here are a few photos from Africa, Europe and the Middle East just to lend a bit of color to the post!
Timbuktu might be the best movie I’ve seen in a long while. It was one of the five 2015 foreign film nominees, the only African film, and the only film in which, it turns out, I actually know one of the actors— Kettly Noël, the brave funny mad woman. I know Kettly from the contemporary dance-theater world where she is also a star. She directs dance festivals and programs in Bamako, creates and co-creates dance-theatre works in which, as you might imagine if you’ve seen this film, she performs brilliantly. Kettly is not a personal friend so I was unaware of her role in Timbuktu until…until before my very eyes, she appeared—a gorgeous force of nature.
I have rediscovered foreign films and documentaries. So much better generally than anything we’ll experience at the regular multiplex. I’ve also rediscovered Albuquerque’s High Ridge Theater—only local home for foreign films. I know, I know, it’s been there all the time but I’ve been out of a movie-going routine. Now I Am Back. Thanks more than a little to Timbuktu.
There are numerous very fine reviews of Timbuktu. Uniformly glowing. I’ve become very nervous about excerpting much of anything on my blogs and in any case you should go to at least a couple of these websites so you can see some of the photos.
Please see this film. It makes some of the craziness of the current wave of extremism not exactly understandable but it does puts it in a real world context. Monsters one moment, seemingly normal human beings a moment earlier, maybe again a moment later. Or not. Jekyll and Hyde. Hitler loved his dog. The Hutu father killed his Tutsi daughter-in-law, the mother of his grandchildren. The Jihadist beheader grew up with a normal mom and dad in London or Jordan or Minneapolis. It’s enough to make us scared of ourselves—and we should be.
Variety Magazine:Jay Weissberg http://variety.com/2014/film/reviews/cannes-film-review-timbuktu-1201181839/ I’ve included just a bit of the review to give you a more professional version of what it is all about than mine.
In our Western-imperialist culture, ‘Timbuktu’ is slang for the outer fringe of East Bumfuck, but it’s the center of the world in Abderrahmane Sissako’s shattering Timbuktu — a center that cannot hold. The city is on the edge of the Sahara Desert in Mali with one foot in Islamic culture and the other in West African, and so the film has the rare distinction of being in six different languages: French, Arabic, Bambara, Songhay, Tamasheq, and English (the last employed in desperation when a character’s Arabic is too lousy to be understood). With all its colliding tongues and mores, the region is the perfect setting for farce — but in this case, tragic farce. There’s always tragedy when people have guns and are righteous about using them.
Sissako has set Timbuktu during the 2012 takeover of the city by religious jihadists, who announce via megaphone that Sharia is now in effect. That means public lashings for playing music. Or playing soccer. Or playing around. Or just, it seems, playing. Women accustomed to the colors (and plumes) of West Africa must cover every inch of flesh — which doesn’t sit well with a voluble fish seller, who throws a tantrum over having to wear gloves and is hauled away. (That’s nothing: Sarah Birke reports in the New York Review of Books that ISIS requires female surgeons to wear the full niqab and black gloves.) Some of the film’s jihadist soldiers are green and look confused by the disrespect and defiance. They don’t quite know what to do when a Muslim elder asks them to leave a mosque so that he and others can “pray in peace.” It’s clear that, without force, jihad just won’t take in Timbuktu.
You can intuit from the opening — Islamic soldiers firing from a jeep at a young gazelle — that there will be force and that it will be terrible. “
*This article appears in the January 26, 2015 issue of New York Magazine.
Timbuktu is unqualifiedly a brilliant film—and soon I will post a review of it; mostly I will quote other smartly written reviews and just add personal notes of what it meant to me.
Before publishing the review, I want to share two or three small photo albums from my 2010 trip to Mali.
This is partly to give me a little more writing time, but also to help me narrow down which photo I will eventually frame to remember that trip. These first few aren’t in contention for framed photo—rather I am so deep into travel planning mode these day that I’m thinking maybe some photos reminding me of the more mundane aspects of travel might calm me down.
Albuquerque was covered in snow yesterday morning. It was quite lovely actually. Magical. Okay okay I know you back-easters and up-northers have no reason to feel this way but do grant me a weather-moment now and then. It happens so seldom.
So normally I would write posts about weather and clothes shopping at TODAY X 365. However this is really all about the Big 2015 Trip so travel blog it is.
I am celebrating this weekend by reveling in a rare winter wonderland enhanced by Big2105Trip planning. You see I stopped by REI in Friday’s snowstorm. Could there possibly be a better refuge as the snow so prettily falls than a place full of the world’s greatest outdoor gear and all those fit-looking guys (and smattering of women—also trim and fit) who seem to know everything about what’ll keep me warm in Russia, comfy on the train, what doubles as airplane pants and pajama pants, and best of all, in addition to being informed they are pleasant, mildly interested in my needs, and they all look like they climb a mountain or at least hike to the corner once in awhile.
I’ve been going to REI off and on for awhile because my sons like the place so much. Just bought my new backpack for B15T there a couple of weeks ago. Now I Have Joined. I Belong! So, as that snow so quietly blanketed the city, I shopped. And since I was shopping in REI I could stay warm while pretending to myself I would rather be outdoors scaling a cliff or rescuing a black lab puppy from an icy pond. Anyway I bought what I think will be the perfect jacket: North Face, all black and shiny, super light, super stylish (in that experienced traveler hiking the hills around Ulan Bator kind of way). Soft warm pants for the plane and chilly fall days and nights…and another more-stylish pants for camel riding or going to dinner at Andreas Viestad’s restaurant in Oslo—a restaurant known for serving horse, bear, and pigs from the Oslo petting zoo. But that’s another story.
Back to REI…love that place. If I had five small children or three sickly dogs or lived in a chic apartment (in Albuquerque?) I could not afford REI but, if I can, why not buy things at businesses that employ people who know a lot of stuff about their trade; pay them at least well enough so it looks like they might shop at work—and where, if you are a member (costs $20 to join) you can take anything back for a very long time…if it’s not worn out of course. Yup, REI just replaced Nordstrom’s as my favorite clothing store. Knowing of course I can always stop off at Costco for a pair of Gloria Vanderbilt jeans if I feel Anderson Cooper’s future is in any way insecure.
I’ll be back with today’s part of the celebration later on. Downton Abbey TWO HOUR FINALE. New House of Cards season available if there’s time and cooking a pork roast in milk recipe from the Times AND drinking an Alaskan beer while I cook—practically my favorite state of being. Which will be posted on TODAY X 365 (marjorieneset.com) since it is essentially a day without travel. Is there such a thing? Never. I’ll watch Fareed Zakaria for the state of the world which will be enough stress for an otherwise peaceful day at home.
There are many stages to making and implementing a travel plan. Idea. Excitement. Fear. Disbelief (that you’re contemplating this really dumb idea). More excitement. More fear. Deciding not to go. Deciding to go. Paying money. Waking up in the middle of the night worried about money. Waking up in the middle of the night worried about getting sick on the Trans-Siberian Express. Feeling the fear subside. Paying money. Fear Gone. Excitement Back. Wanting-to-skip-around-the-room-excitement—but it looks bad if you do that at work and my apartment is too small. Paying money. Paying money. Paying money.
I’m in the merrily-skipping-about stage right now. But there will be several more waves of fear, excitement and worry before the real travel begins. And a few moments of resigned numbness when I board that flight to Oslo.
UPDATE
The Big2015Trip has five main sections: Norway; To Russia/Russia; Trans-Siberian Train; Mongolia; Beijing/Seoul.
Next week the deed will be almost-irrevocably done.
Meanwhile:
“I travel not to go anywhere, but to go. I travel for travel’s sake. The great affair is to move.” (Robert Louis Stevenson)
Snow on the ground this morning. Not a lot…well a lot for Albuquerque. Perhaps one/one-zillionth of an inch. I came to work very early to respond to phone calls asking if we are open today! A sense of confusion uncertainty wonderment anxiety overwhelms the city when the ground isn’t its normal dusty brown. Yes. We. Are. Open. I say to the callers.
Which reminds me of what I want to say. I like weather. Checking in with the national and local weather when I got up I was thinking about how I should have been a weatherperson. Not a silly reader in short skirt and high heels giggling through the sunny morning chat but a proper weather analyst or weather journalist. Possibly that would have satisfied my long-time thoughts of being a geographer as well as those other things I wanted to be— historian intellectual scholar writer thinker traveler—rich and beautiful.
But what I really want to think about are the clothes I will need for my summer trip. Summer trip you say…that should be easy. But coming from an Albuquerque summer and going to summer that starts just below the Arctic Circle and ends for me, in September, in Beijing and Seoul at roughly the same latitude as Denver requires some thought. Maybe a trip to REI after work to see if winter stuff is on sale is a good idea.