Granddaughters are the Best. (Well, Grandsons too but I only have one and he’s in California.)

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Eleven days between today and The Trip. Between Last Sunday and That Sunday (August 2nd) there were 10 morning walks and six trips to the gym to get in my version of ‘shape.’  Today there are only 13 of the 16 required activity events to go.  Here’s Monday morning’s 5:30am walk with PATRICA, the granddaughter who accompanies me at dawn! But then think of all that dance TERESA’s had to watch with me so I suppose it all works out.

 

 

WILD LIFE OF THE BOSQUE.

WILD LIFE OF THE BOSQUE.

Two weeks to get in shape for The Journey. I may have set six month, three month, one month deadlines for launching a plan to become super-healthy before I travel. Okay, so they didn’t work out. Think what I can do in two weeks however.

Fourteen days. Six visits to gym for abs class and at least half an hour on the machines. Ten morning walks, one to 1 ½ hours each. A heart transplant…

Find a primary care physician who will give me a recommendation so I can get in to see a UNM gastroenterologist before I leave—Not Going to Happen. That’s okay, I’ve mostly fixed stomach issues myself. But I may not be able to sample the milk vodka in Mongolia. Unless it’s at lunch with the sheep’s eyes on a bed of kale sprinkled ever so lightly with candied rutabaga.

Actually at least half the countries through which I’m traveling have better healthcare systems than the U.S. so I can probably get in to see a doctor in Norway or Sweden or Latvia, China or South Korea much quicker than here. And, actually, ALL of the countries I’m traveling through, with the possible exception of Russia, have less gun violence than the U.S. so my odds of needing a doctor to stem bleeding and related symptoms are less anyway.

What else for health. Does a haircut count? And be sure and take my most comfy, though rather ugly, sneakers. In an hour or so I am off to REI to find a super light and soft and blanket-like big fat hoodie for airlines and Mongolia. I refuse to wear the one that says Washington DC for one single more trip; we’ve been together eight years or so. Enough.

Morning walk was, as always, amazing. Down along the river in the thick bosque brush on leisurely Sunday mornings. Perfect. Met a gorgeous dog whose bird-watching companion said he found her several years ago as a tiny puppy, almost dead, tied to a tree in the bosque. A happy Sunday morning story, much more inspiring than any sermon I was ever subjected to as an already-disbelieving child.

Happy Sunday.

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The small northern Minnesota farm on which I grew up has passed from Swan and Ovidia Neset to me to my sons. It is a very special place. Hope Scott and Steve and my grandchildren will come to know the pleasure of its green solitude and will keep it in the family for awhile.

The photo album that follows is long and rambling, much like the day I spent out at ‘the old place’ in June. I posted a lot of Minnesota photos when I was up there last month but today’s series represents my walk up through the fields and woods to the end of the land—a view of the property for my sons. Enjoy if you like summer woods.

Pretty ALBUQUERQUE Bosque Pictures

Ducks.

Too Early For Photos.

Hellofaweek…who knew this was a popular “tag” and not a word I invented. Google it—very popular. There is nothing new I can invent? Is there? Or you can invent? Or Bill Gates or Barack Obama can invent? I am home with a wine/sparkling water drink—yes depressed—yes, bad newsletter/computer/accomplishing any-effing-thing day. Newsletter…hours and days and weeks of work cannot translate from publisher’s to pdf. Sorry I brought that up.

Another shootout, this time a military base.  God bless america. Hearts are broken. Yeah, right. If hearts were broken guns would be less available. Hear the clink of coin…not heart…coin.

Never mind. Time and Place is about Travel. Age. Mostly. How about walks in the morning and computer f-ups and my f-ups?

Here are some pics. What a lovely morning it was. No thoughts of time or place. I think two or three posts are necessary. SOON—actual travel stuff.

Very early. Before 6am. Is the white bird a duck or a goose? I googled that question and without serious reading or looking I still don’t know. So here’s my morning buddy.

Flowers.

Saturday.

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Sometimes the trip coming up just scares me. Not places or people or missed connections or expense or cold or heat. It is all about me and my vulnerabilities.

This blog, as you already know is called Time & Place for several reasons. Among them my love for history and geography but also, increasingly, my forced fascination with aging, the latter inspiring my travel trepidation. It’s that I’m not young and immortal that worries me, worries all of us, doesn’t it?  Especially if we’re far from home. So for the next three weeks I will be anxious.’What ifs’ pop up at all moments of the day and night. Always about my strength and stamina. That big trip back in 1989, the ‘almost around the world’ trip. I was never frightened. No credit cards or Surface or smart phone…just a younger body and a less-cynical mind. Fearless.

I really want to write though about what I’m doing to quell these fear-of-travel moments. Immersing myself in stories of course. In Books. Although these days streaming stories on Netflix or Amazon can be pretty satisfying as well.

I’ve always done this. Read to escape. Always. Practically from babyhood. Whatever the circumstance that made life less than satisfactory. A little crowded house, enforced cold-winter hibernation, dislike of a teacher, my best friend being mean to me,  feeling fat/ugly/dumb/unpopular, boyfriends proving disappointing, never enough money, jobs that sucked, houses that needed cleaning. Life’s occasional downers. But. Hey. You. Marjorie. You’re okay. Read stories. Watch stories. Tell stories. Take one story in the morning, one in the evening; you’ll feel better in no time at all.

So. Just in case you’re having a bad day, weekend, month or life, here are some recommendations to make it all better. Read Half of a Yellow Sun by Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie. I have had the book for a few years and never gotten around to it. Then on a trip last fall I picked up her newer Americanah. This woman is simply one of the most brilliant storytellers around. Half of a Yellow Sun is the story of Biafran war and Americanah, the tale of a woman between, and of, two worlds, Nigeria and the U.S. Adichie is one of those writers that tells her stories so vividly you forget to notice what a really fine wordsmith she is. And then you reread paragraphs and pages to marvel at how she brought you right along to Biafra or New Jersey with her.

Now It’s Sunday.

BEST SUNDAY MORNING PLACE TO BE.

BEST SUNDAY MORNING PLACE TO BE.

Books are the best we agree—many of us. However, having just spent 13 hours over the past two weekends watching The Americans thanks to Amazon Prime, I’m willing to acknowledge that stories made for our multiple screens, especially as made available in big clumps of time by Netflix and Amazon are pretty damn wonderful as well. Now we can watch just as we read. For a chapter or for hours on end. A whole day, a whole night if we so choose.

I’ve been talking about stories/reading as an anti-anxiety drug for those stressful or sad times. And surely my last two weekends, which included six or seven hours of finishing up Season Three of Orange is the New Black in addition to gorging on The Americans, included a big component of not thinking about everything I should do before leaving for the world or what might happen out there.

Still, it’s really all about the stories, not what I use them for… Tough funny women telling it like it is in OITNB. And then Reagan-era spies in The Americans which is one of those great discoveries that come along now and then. And, in a way, at just the right moment. Preparation for RUSSIA. I must admit to being most psyched by going to Russia for the first time ever. The Russia of Catherine the Great, Quietly Flows the Don and Doctor Zhivago (which may be the only Russian novels I’ve read—although I’m thinking I must have read Crime and Punishment—but I’d remember that wouldn’t I?). The Russia of grand noblemen and suffering serfs and scary communism and borscht and gulags and the Trans-Siberian Express (with me on it). The Russia of spies and spies and more spies. The Americans is all about the latter. American and Russian spies during the Reagan era. Bloody and sexy and terrifying and perhaps with quite a lot of truths all around the edges at least. And there are no pure good or bad guys on either side. That’s one of the main things that makes the series so very fine. Maybe there is not quite the level of cool sophistication and terrifying tension as House of Cards but I rather like that it’s a bit more sweaty and graphic. Best of all I have two seasons to go when I return in September.

Sundays are lovely. Story times. The Sunday NYT, chock full of stories of the world and weddings and art. PBS in the evenings with contemporary dramas like The Last Tango in Halifax and all of those brilliant British Masterpieces and detectives and nurse/midwife adventures—only 5 ½ months until Downton Abbey returns—sadly for the last time.

It is nearly noon, chilly in my apartment from the cool rainy New Mexican weather. Yes, that’s what I said. What an unusual and lovely summer so far. I wish I went out more but the only place nearby that I really love is the Bosque and I really only love it in the early morning. The problem with that is if one spends much of the night with stories, it’s hard to leap bright and bushy-tailed into life right at dawn. Now I’m going to have a watered-down Australian red with my lunch of egg salad, egg-salad and more eggsalad and select the Russian literature I want to download to Nook for the upcoming journey. I’ll read while I eat to make my awful lunch palatable. Let’s see how that works.

KING TUT'S PUPPY DOG. 1989.

KING TUT’S PUPPY DOG. 1989.

In 1989, in a bit of a huff over what I perceived as betrayal and shortsightedness on behalf of the City of Albuquerque, I quit my nice job, withdrew my 10-years worth of retirement pay and set off to explore. Perhaps, you say, this was not a wise financial move. Who’s to judge? I can still retire when I’m 81 and having to get up and go to work gives me something to look forward to….

I managed to stay out of the country for three months that time, traveling to several European cities and countries—starting in Paris; winding up (I think) in Cairo. In between, there were Douala, Kinshasa and Manila and maybe some places else.

I met up with arts colleagues in Europe and Kinshasa and family in Manila. Otherwise I was just rambling about on my own. I got my visa for Cameroon at The Hague (regarded with great suspicion by immigration officials when I landed at a dark and deserted airport in Douala quite late at night). I tried to get a visa for Vietnam while stranded in Manila for a couple of weeks but it was too soon. Americans were not being admitted with wounds still festering and my status as a student anti-war marcher didn’t play anywhere in that scenario. I still haven’t been to Vietnam…maybe next year.

I think that scenario gives me bragging rights as someone who has at least attempted to be a bona fide world traveler—if not yet quite reaching that elevated status for which I so long.

That 1989 Big Trip will be a chapter or more in Window Seat, at which time the burning question of whether I’ve already been around the world will be answered, but that’s in the future—I’ve only written through 1963 and the first Philippines trip so far. The puzzle for this post is have I been around the world before. In 1989 did I fly to Europe from the U.S. and fly out of Asia to return? If I headed home out of Cairo, which I think is the case, then probably not, I would have returned across the Atlantic. But in the back of my mind I’m wondering if Cairo came before Manila and I flew back over the Pacific? In which case this year will be my second jaunt all the way around.

I have, tucked about my main writing desk, notebooks and a few stories and the miscellaneous flotsam of a time when all itineraries and tickets and receipts were paper things. So with not too much digging I will find the answer to my question. But for now I don’t want to know. I like both ideas.

In three weeks I am embarking on my first trip around the world.

In three weeks I am embarking on my second trip around the world.

The truth of either is magical to me.

CAIRO '89

CAIRO ’89

MOBUTU'S KINSHASA 1989. NICE IF YOU'RE WHITE. NOT SO MUCH OTHERWISE. UNLESS OF COURSE YOU ARE MOBUTU.

MOBUTU’S KINSHASA 1989. NICE IF YOU’RE WHITE. NOT SO MUCH OTHERWISE. UNLESS OF COURSE YOU ARE MOBUTU.

Night rains makes every sight more vivid, sound carry farther and even the bosque rabbit comes out.

I always think part of my reason for needing to GO PLACES is my (humankind’s) existential search for water/moisture/rain/lakes/oceans/streams. This summer it seems to be raining in Albuquerque so why leave? But there are these big plans and train tickets and plane tickets and that amazing new backpack so guess I’ll go anyway. Meanwhile I’m very busy with the North Fourth ‘newsletter of a thousand pictures’ so there is no time to write profound things. Only to enjoy the evening downpour and morning walk in the leaf/earth/river-smelling, sunnily lit, freshly-washed bosque.

?

 

An ALBUQUERQUE Bosque Morning

The Time is July 5th, 2015, still morning. My Place is Albuquerque, New Mexico. Just a little while ago it was dawn down by the Rio Grande. Quiet. Absolutely quiet. Only saw two people and one rabbit and heard a few sleepy birds. Soon the sun came to bother me but it was still a little cool and smelled of green, unusual for New Mexico. So for awhile I ignored thoughts of the Other Places of the Big15Trip and loved the Place I was…something I often forget to do.

 

 

Independence Day in ALBUQUERQUE

Could I be just a little flippant about independence on this fine 4th of July? My independence. A cherished but sometimes exhausting state of being.

I am told that I was always an independent sort—but when I was four being chastised by my mother for chewing forbidden gum and somehow wadding it in my already scraggly locks, I didn’t know how completely that would apply to my life. Now I know. With the exception of 14 years of marriage it seems I’ve been independent since I left home when I was 18. I’m not sure I intended to be totally on my own all this time but since marriage didn’t seem to be my cup of tea the only other security-conscious option  would have been a trust fund. Do you have any idea how few trust fund babies were fathered by laid-back lumberjacks from Northome, Minnesota? Sven Neset was a dear man and a great dad, just not the fortune-building type so my independence has remained untroubled by issues of high finance—although I must say low-finance has been a constant annoyance.

What does this have to do with the Big Trip of 2015 you may be asking. Just this. You can only design such a free-range journey if you have no one else with whom to negotiate about destination, transportation or accommodation. In other words you have the choices at hand of any other free-range creature—liberty or starvation or being run over by a semi, but at least you’ve had your independent run in the sun.

I have described my Big Trip to friends and family and will do so again but often when I do eyes glaze over or foreheads crinkle with questions (like what in the hell is a Latvia and ‘Seriously? Beijing? All that smog!’) and they are baffled by just why I would make such an unorthodox, expensive and time-consuming journey. But mostly they’re puzzled by the fact that I’m traveling alone. They’re right in a way—there is good news and bad news about going solo.

The biggest advantage of traveling alone is that you are seeing things through your own eyes. You can read all of the books and talk to all of the friends you want—and you should do so—but you don’t want to rely only on someone else’s thought and opinions. Alone on the road it’s just you and the world around you. Your take on things. Your view of pretty versus ugly. Your definition of tasty versus inedible. Your understanding of whether the natives are friendly or rude. Sometimes I like to evaluate all of this myself—in the twisting and turnings of my own idiosyncratic brain. Sometimes I just want to nestle into my window seat with me and peer at the world going by without prejudice or prejudgment.

Is there a downside to all of this glorious singularity you ask. Yes. Several actually. There’s the ordinary everyday snag in the plan. I am spending way too much money in Norway,  my hotel room in Riga reeks of bygone smokers, the flu bug finds me on an endless train ride through Siberia, the camels of Mongolia hate me…it is all my problem. All my problem. No commiseration companion, no one to blame…just me…I did it.

And then there are the emotional and physical components of unaccompanied adventuring. Loneliness, homesickness, depression, exhaustion.  All to be expected and written about as I go along, hopefully with lots of dispassionate humor leavening the whining.

Only the mention of boredom surprises people but, after all, even in the most stimulating of circumstances one can only be alert and attentive and engaged so much of the time. There is such guilt accompanying turning off when you’re on a new road however. How can I be lying here in my hotel room reading Norwegian Noir in Beijing or grazing on Huffpost in Oslo? Paul Theroux would never ever do that—a time-wasting lie-in while journeying in new lands—would he? He always travels alone and probably leaps out of bed bright-eyed and eager each morning to observe the new scene about which he will write a crankily-brilliant book that I will then devour–imagining on my next trip I will be just like Paul Theroux. Maybe this is that trip? Or not. But that’s okay too.

Twenty-eight days until lift-off. Happy Independence Day, Marjorie.

ABOUT THE TIME I DECIDED I SHOULD GO TO EVERY COUNTRY IN THE WORLD.

ABOUT THE TIME I DECIDED I SHOULD GO TO EVERY COUNTRY IN THE WORLD.