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Have been without internet for a few days and in the midst of meeting new family members and visiting familiar places and people. Although I have started posts about much of this only one is completed so I’ll begin catching up by posting this sentimental (in a good way) paean to NESET (Now Neset Camping) in Byglandsfiord, Norway.

NESET

I am home. Byglandsfiord, Norway. From whence the small Neset family, Asborg and her daughters and sons—one of whom was Sven, my dad, departed. And I’m camping…playhouse-size cabin, bed and electricity but toilet facilities up the hill a short ways—that counts as camping, right? This is Neset Camping; Neset means small peninsula in Norwegian and this is the scenic bit of land and lake where my father lived until age seven. Another family shared/owned  the peninsula which juts out in long blue lake, called Byglandsfiord even though it is not a real fiord, between two user-friendly fir-green mountain ranges. So both families took the name Neset. And now we’re both here again, me for only days unfortunately.

My Neset family moved, some to Grendi nearby, my grandfather to America. My cousins Neset who stayed in Norway became successful educators, administrators and writers and continue to live in what is frequently deemed the richest and most peaceful of all countries on earth. Olav, son of the family who stayed here on this land owns and operates this small version of heaven called Neset Camping, a popular Norwegian campground. My Grandfather Neset, on the other hand, moved to that land of freedom and opportunity across the Atlantic where the father and sons became struggling lumberjacks. Turns out the American Nesets were never destined for the kind of financial success of which inspiring immigrant tales are made.

I love it here in Norway…completely irrevocably happily. I always feel a bit sorry for and a little superior to Americans who get that blank look when asked “What nationality/ethnicity are you?” Who respond, “Well, I’m an American of course.” Yes, your citizenship is American—as in the United States brand but, unless Native American, we all have our origins outside of the U.S. That’s an exciting fact; the U.S. just isn’t that old and yet we all get to share this long long history back into Norse or Greek or Swahili or Aztec gods and kings and be part of all those the new discoveries and old wars that emerged from our birth cultures.  I would hate to think my cultural existence extended only to Jamestown or Plymouth Rock or St. Augustine. So I’m sad for you ancestor-deprived people…I guess you get Cotton Mather as your original god instead of Zeus or Odin (the latter being the Norse god of war and poetry—and he’s mine). Too bad.

So back to Neset Camping. This little peninsula. Where the drinkable air gives me sustenance. The only other place I know where this earthy mossy water-logged clean fresh tasty air exists is my brother’s old place outside of Haines, Alaska.

As the name would suggest Neset is a real campground. Surrounded by water and mountains and trees and generously populated with merry bands of roaming rabbits and exotic chickens of all hues.

It’s dusk now and so unimaginably peaceful. There are many people here; Neset has been growing with Olav even making the small peninsula just a little bigger by filling in nooks and crannies with rocks and soil from the nearby mountains. Here it is all Still and Quiet. This is my third visit and there is never noise. There are cabins of all sizes and camping vehicles of all sizes (except those giants we see on American freeways). People, lots of people, sit outside conversing lazily and pleasantly in vacation-subdued tones, often just reading and gazing out over the peace of a cherished natural environment. Kids wander and play and giggle and whisper. No one is noisily under the influence, no one is arguing, no one is playing music, no one has ever been shot, arrested, or run over a rabbit or kid while steering their vehicle to the water’s edge. Olav did say a few years ago he had to get up in the middle of the night and tell some people to quiet down!

I have cousins and towns and more Norway stuff to write about—got behind while visiting family and Neset. What pleasure it is. And not one single soul has asked me about Breaking Bad! Finally I’ve escaped its pall.

 Charcoal clouds are sailing over Setesdal Valley. The green mountainside will blacken soon and the pale boulders and rocks lining the shore of Byglandsfiord will disappear into the night. A spotty black and white rabbit is finishing up his grassy-greens. I am really so happy.

Not the least because I actually have a flashlight along to guide me up the hill for midnight visits to the facilities!

To bed now with Knausgaard. So far one cousin is somewhat indifferent toward the famous Norwegian’s writing, another is quite in love with the work and even her 90-year-old mother read every one of the six volumes. Anyway he is a good companion on a trip back home.

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In the Land of DELTA

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So I tried to write a long stream-of-consciousness poem-like thing. I did not work. I am not Ron Silliman or probably James Joyce either. Although I feel sure if I rewrote DELTA a few more tens of times it could get close. It seems like sacrificing a week of my vaca to do that would not be wise use of my time. However I’ve decided to post it anyway because it does pretty much describe the trip over.

DELTA

Here I am, Albuquerque airport, easy TSA check-in, an advantage of old and early, wine and chips with queso, warm cheese that gets skin on top so a little off-putting but the only small thing to order, feel myself sliding into travel mode, leaving on a jet plane and all that, a wave of travel love is spreading through my veins or maybe that’s the Pino Grigio, do men all over the world live in ugly baggy shorts like American men, see the waiters—slow-moving, stocky impassive Native American, fake-perky tired-looking 45-year-old sick of her job, eager young woman with Down Syndrome—half a waiting lounge full of elderly couples on a Sun Tours adventure, I AM NOT THEM, no matchy-matchy pants suit outfit for me…and Hillary should stop wearing them too unless all those trips to 120 countries were just the high end of giant Sun Tour-like events, black REI things and a backpack will get ME around the world, pretending I’m younger than them which in spirit might be true, one woman says “my son lives with me you know, he’s in his 50s, he has a hard time with jobs,” “Oh my” says the other, what if I had a husband with me, would I like that, I suppose not, years ago I had a 60-year-old lover named Ralph and his thin almost-delicate skin felt unnatural, odd, now I’m older than that and you can practically see through my skin. The horror of contemporary flying, used to love it no matter how uncomfortable—it was adventure, now it’s a cattle call for the claustrophobic and me, only a row away from the loud full-of-himself clown and next to the covey consuming fermented cabbage (made that last thing up) on this A330.

Leaving Minneapolis to spend seven hours and thirty-three minutes in a full plane, seatmate is slim and silent, yes yes yes, big young guy in front of me turns around, ‘Do you mind if I put my seat back a little?’ I love him, “‘Remove the vest from the container as you leave the plane (before you jump off the tilting wing?—maybe I heard that wrong), activate the oxygen mask by pulling down on the cord and…, make sure your seat is in the full upright position,” lights dim, people in summer shirts, I’m pulling out my jackets and have put on tights under stretchy—but not lavender polyester—pants, red soft blanket for protection against all the inane crap emitted from the many little glowing screens up and down the aisle, Nook bulging with Russian literature and Swedish murder, no Knausgaard 4th volume until Norway, rudely awakened after take-off doze with bright lights and dinner advancing slowly down the aisle, Manicotti, ugh, big 10pm meal, unhealthy late night mess of plastic and crinkly cracker coverings and warm lettuce and margarine for god’s sake and no space and so the tomato sauce-smeared knife falls on a new jacket, but we’re used to it and look forward to the ‘event’ that is the meal, once I had a superior meal on South African Airways and 30 years ago Air France had tasty items including real baguettes, the voice says “all passengers will receive a complimentary bottle of water,”  wow the generosity of it all, “we’re delighted you could join us here at Delta,” use the bathroom before take-off when it’s briefly clean, take drowsy pill, I’ve never been afraid of flying but sometimes the disappeared Malaysian plane comes to mind and I wonder what it feels like to go down down down, the announcing voice says “if you see a pilot walk down the aisle know that we will always still have a full complement of pilots in the cockpit,” no suiciding on Delta, wonder how long it’ll be before guns will be allowed on planes, surely the NRA is lobbying for that, it will be so good to know the angry-looking guy on his third whiskey arguing with the flight attendant is carrying or is that packing or packing heat or is that ‘has a permit for concealed carry,’ love Wayne’s language.

Saw a man sitting in the Minneapolis airport lounge brushing his teeth, honestly, do you swallow the toothpaste or what, how does that work, I AM GOING AROUND THE WORLD, there, up in first class just through that beaded curtain the ‘waiter’ is serving little pretties and champagne, back here we are just looking forward to that free water. Monday now isn’t it? Soon we will land but not before the morning’s cold leathery croissant has landed on our trays, there is Greek yogurt though, the world’s go-to foodstuff, thank you Mercury—patron god of financial gain, commerce, eloquence (and thus poetry), messages/communication (including divination), travelers, boundaries, luck, trickery and thieves; also the guide of souls to the underworld—for yogurt, slept and read from Nook, not so bad, wrapped in my jackets and blanket, rocked to sleep by Airbus.

2:35pm, Amsterdam to Oslo, Norwegians are more light brown than blonde aren’t they/we, the Pole and Swedes and Russians seem blonder, why is that? Do Norwegians spend more time in the sun, bleach their hair more? One row back three hefty Scandinavian-looking Americans (Wisconsin is mentioned) are talking about dairy farming on the land inherited from great-great-grandfather, 60 head of cattle, “actually pampered” he says “not like those ‘happy California cows’ in the TV ads that have nothing but dead brown grass stalks to munch on.” Hearty laughter.

In Oslo. Wish I had seen Karl Ove Knausgaard at the airport.

To NORWAY; In NORWAY

Only 15 hours from home if you go from Albuquerque by way of Minneapolis and Amsterdam. I love it here—all green (I admit to an abnormal ‘green’ fixation) and quiet and not-grand but beautifully ordinary. My hotel is right on a huge lush park so perhaps I can find some ducks of which to take pics of tomorrow.

The trip here was totally uneventful but nevertheless degrading the way airline travel has become. Herded here and there and packed together and spoken sharply to and frozen and fed bad things. I decided to make it through by conducting a stream-of-consciousness writing experiment, creating a poem called DELTA, copying Ron Silliman’s BART. Silliman rode BART one whole day and simply recorded what he observed in one pages-long sentence/poem. One of my favorite poems. But I can do that I said to myself. So I scribbled madly sometimes but just existed in a condition I fondly think of as airfunk other times. Turns out airfunk isn’t my invention; there’s a site making videos that is named AirFunk, but it seems so perfect for describing one’s state of being on long flights I intend to claim it for future travel-writing.

Well then. Here I am at Ellingsens Pensjonat/Bed and Breakfast. It’s quite comfortable and sweet really and by a sumptuous park and near the Palace—not sure which palace but I foresee many photo ops tomorrow. Took the airport bus the 35 or so miles into the city and then a cab the few blocks here. The fares were exactly the same! Checked in just after 6pm and now trying to stay awake until 10. After a long long day of travel it is so completely satisfying to reach your hotel and so totally irresistible to crash. But I did not; here I am hours later in a daze. For me the worst leg of this trip is over—except for last one going back home from Korea. I am so tired, too tired to go to check out the many restaurants I am told are just around the corner, not an ounce of energy left in my flown-out old body.

As anyone who’s ever read this blog knows, I am completely in love with the idea of being Minnesotan and Norwegian and feel so right with the world in both places. I am here and very happy and settled down in my modestly charming two-day home.

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Leaving ALBUQUERQUE for the World

Today it’s off around the world. Sounds adventuresome doesn’t it? Me and Marco Polo. Out of my cozy Venice Albuquerque home and across the seas and steppes to visit Kublai Khan, grandson of Genghis, or if not him perhaps the staff and guides at Mongolian Secret History Camp. But that’s all a few weeks from now—first Norway…

From now on this blog is all travel all of the time—with some whining here and there just to add that personal element all good travel writers incorporate so excellently.

Meanwhile. Phew! Glad this week’s over. Except for the nice times with Scott last weekend and Sara yesterday. And the fact that my super amazing thoughtful smart and incredibly good-looking doctor sent me for many tests, actually called me and told me things, prescribed meds and cured me. There was still all the nerve-wracking minutiae of desk and refrigerator clearing, and gift and toothpaste purchasing and repacking to a different suitcase and then repacking that two or three times. Now. It. Is. Time.

The second day of the last month of pure summer today. And an astounding summer it has been. Albuquerque is as green as Grand Rapids, Minnesota! In fact it is the BEST SUMMER of my many many years in this town and state. Only made it out for two river walks this week but I took enough duck and green photos to last us awhile. I think I should share this wealth in two blogs. Now and after Fareed Zakaria.

I am actually sorry to miss the Republican debate next week. Who can resist a whole stage full of clowns? Maybe I can stream it.

The GREEN is just so damn beautiful I cannot stop myself. Snap snap snap…

 

The Itinerary. The Arrangements. The Payments. The Luggage. The Endoscopy.  

True, the latter was not part of the initial pretty picture of the Big15Trip, but dudu occurs, yes? The endoscopy was simply to rule out any serious reasons for my stomach’s frequent ‘acting-up.’ And it did…rule out the bad stuff. Now a consistent regimen of prilosec for awhile will enable me to eat Norwegian, Swedish, Latvian and Belarusian prior to getting to the supposedly more serious foodlands of Russia and China and to the mysteries of Mongolian delicacies. I actually foresee a few nice dinners with a lovely local wine occasionally…something I haven’t been enjoying for awhile.

Evenings after tests/procedures/hours-in-hospital-gowns are free zones. So I’m watching politics; with some meds left in my system I can watch flashes of Trump without racing for the bathroom. Rachel Maddow first. Usually Gene Grant on Friday nights but felt like a snotty pushy brilliant broad tonight. And Charlie Rose.

Now I need one of my Scandi-noir books and I’m out of newbies, having just finished the latest Annika Bengston Borderline by Liza Marklund. A really good series of Swedish detective novels, way above average, and with an expanding international/political direction more interesting all of the time.

Maybe I’ll download something and make myself start practicing reading by Nook which is all full of downloaded Russian novels and more political tomes just waiting for me to adapt enough to the funny little screen to read seriously on it. But Dostoyevsky and Tolstoy laced with contemporary Nordic Noir is where I’m heading.

Saturday morning. Did it. Read for awhile on my Nook. Started a new book about Putin AND a new Swedish Crime novel. It’s okay…I can for sure travel—Steady Stomach and Nook Novels.

Morning walk album:

ALBUQUERQUE Wild Life

My first Bosque coyote. My life as a serious wild life photographer has begun.

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Walking briskly along, camera in pocket. Only good health and exercise in mind. And along comes a big fat beautiful coyote. He was bouncing along, paused to eye me, decided I wasn’t nearly young and juicy enough for breakfast, bounced further along, stopped again. By this time my camera was out but it was way too late for a good shot. Best I can do for a morning adventure.

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Granddaughters are the Best. (Well, Grandsons too but I only have one and he’s in California.)

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Eleven days between today and The Trip. Between Last Sunday and That Sunday (August 2nd) there were 10 morning walks and six trips to the gym to get in my version of ‘shape.’  Today there are only 13 of the 16 required activity events to go.  Here’s Monday morning’s 5:30am walk with PATRICA, the granddaughter who accompanies me at dawn! But then think of all that dance TERESA’s had to watch with me so I suppose it all works out.

 

 

WILD LIFE OF THE BOSQUE.

WILD LIFE OF THE BOSQUE.

Two weeks to get in shape for The Journey. I may have set six month, three month, one month deadlines for launching a plan to become super-healthy before I travel. Okay, so they didn’t work out. Think what I can do in two weeks however.

Fourteen days. Six visits to gym for abs class and at least half an hour on the machines. Ten morning walks, one to 1 ½ hours each. A heart transplant…

Find a primary care physician who will give me a recommendation so I can get in to see a UNM gastroenterologist before I leave—Not Going to Happen. That’s okay, I’ve mostly fixed stomach issues myself. But I may not be able to sample the milk vodka in Mongolia. Unless it’s at lunch with the sheep’s eyes on a bed of kale sprinkled ever so lightly with candied rutabaga.

Actually at least half the countries through which I’m traveling have better healthcare systems than the U.S. so I can probably get in to see a doctor in Norway or Sweden or Latvia, China or South Korea much quicker than here. And, actually, ALL of the countries I’m traveling through, with the possible exception of Russia, have less gun violence than the U.S. so my odds of needing a doctor to stem bleeding and related symptoms are less anyway.

What else for health. Does a haircut count? And be sure and take my most comfy, though rather ugly, sneakers. In an hour or so I am off to REI to find a super light and soft and blanket-like big fat hoodie for airlines and Mongolia. I refuse to wear the one that says Washington DC for one single more trip; we’ve been together eight years or so. Enough.

Morning walk was, as always, amazing. Down along the river in the thick bosque brush on leisurely Sunday mornings. Perfect. Met a gorgeous dog whose bird-watching companion said he found her several years ago as a tiny puppy, almost dead, tied to a tree in the bosque. A happy Sunday morning story, much more inspiring than any sermon I was ever subjected to as an already-disbelieving child.

Happy Sunday.

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The small northern Minnesota farm on which I grew up has passed from Swan and Ovidia Neset to me to my sons. It is a very special place. Hope Scott and Steve and my grandchildren will come to know the pleasure of its green solitude and will keep it in the family for awhile.

The photo album that follows is long and rambling, much like the day I spent out at ‘the old place’ in June. I posted a lot of Minnesota photos when I was up there last month but today’s series represents my walk up through the fields and woods to the end of the land—a view of the property for my sons. Enjoy if you like summer woods.

Ducks.

Too Early For Photos.

Hellofaweek…who knew this was a popular “tag” and not a word I invented. Google it—very popular. There is nothing new I can invent? Is there? Or you can invent? Or Bill Gates or Barack Obama can invent? I am home with a wine/sparkling water drink—yes depressed—yes, bad newsletter/computer/accomplishing any-effing-thing day. Newsletter…hours and days and weeks of work cannot translate from publisher’s to pdf. Sorry I brought that up.

Another shootout, this time a military base.  God bless america. Hearts are broken. Yeah, right. If hearts were broken guns would be less available. Hear the clink of coin…not heart…coin.

Never mind. Time and Place is about Travel. Age. Mostly. How about walks in the morning and computer f-ups and my f-ups?

Here are some pics. What a lovely morning it was. No thoughts of time or place. I think two or three posts are necessary. SOON—actual travel stuff.

Very early. Before 6am. Is the white bird a duck or a goose? I googled that question and without serious reading or looking I still don’t know. So here’s my morning buddy.

Flowers.